How to remove the pin from the bolt on a norinco mak 90

When you work on a MAK 90, keep this in mind if you are trying to replace or change parts. Many intentional changes, from different springs to varied dimensions of internal parts, were made in the different plants that produced these rifles. We canвЂ™t tell you which parts will exchange until you get into specific manufactured lots. While some parts may exchange, the key to working this rifle is recognizing that not all parts will. public, not for battle, each was fitted to function individually. Some MAK 90 parts will exchange but because the rifle was made strictly for sale to the U.S. While the Russian and other military AK type rifles have battlefield exchangeable parts, the MAK 90 does not.

Designed as a military weapon, it is easily disassembled and worked but not necessarily simple. I may just have to live with it as-is.The most common AK rifle copy sold in the United States is the Chinese-made MAK 90. It doesn't have to be disassembled but I would like to make some modifications to this piece and it would require disassembly to do so.

The disassembly of it is 'exploratory' in nature. It may just be one of those things that isn't going to happen. I could potentially bore the 'bolt' part out on the lathe and that wouldn't have to be re-finished if I make another but that's getting pretty complicated. It also has a special surface finish on it that I would have to match back to the parent assembly. I'd have to remake it and its much more complicated than just a bolt. So imagine the bolt is down in a counter-bored hole.ДЄnd cutting isn't going to happen. The 'shoulder' of the outer piece is down inside a counter-bore. Short of cutting the bolt head away with a hacksaw & cold chisel so you can grab the pin, I'm stumped.Well, I didn't want to complicate the description anymore than it already is but I'll add more details since it's been brought up now. If there was a chance this was going to work I would have to plug several other holes, fill the entire cavity with grease (nearly impossible to get every nook and cranny of the cavity) and then hope that the threads between the pieces will hold well enough to force it out. I don't think the grease/punch method will work because I'm pretty sure the hole is open on the bottom but it opens into a cavity that can't be accessed while the piece is assembled. Except the hole in the bolt-head is drilled large enough for free-clearance and the pin is only tight in the piece the bolt threads into. Imagine a bolt threaded into a hole all the way up to the bolt head, and then a hole is drilled in the very edge of the bolt-head and it's pinned. So an easy-out might be able to grab enough to get it out without springing the pin too tightly against the walls of the clearance hole. The pin is driven tightly into the other part, but it's driven flush with the top of the flange. The pin isn't positively locked on the smaller, internal piece, the hole is slightly loose, and I can 'wiggle' that piece. Basically, the smaller piece threads into the larger piece and the pin is driven in to keep them from unthreading. In the larger, internally threaded piece there is an interference hole drilled in the shoulder for the pit to be driven in to. In the flange of the smaller, externally threaded piece there is a clearance hole for the pin. small cylindrical externally threaded piece with a 'flange' on it that butts up against a shoulder in a larger internally threaded piece. The pin is likely metric but it's close to 1/8'. I would try easy-outs if I had one small enough. I've read the thread discussing this issue but I can't really use the grease method, can't get a grip on the pin, can't weld anything on because the end is deep inside a pocket, and can't drill from the the other side.

How to remove the pin from the bolt on a norinco mak 90